Remarkable Adventures in Central Europe

Remarkable Adventures in Central Europe

In Central Europe, the new decade brings new adventures—off the beaten track.

Swim in an Austrian lake. Tour Europe—on horseback. Visit a castle—with a real moat. And more!

Austria

Imagine being the only American in Europe. You’re surrounded by storybook buildings (backed by actual stories), Old World customs, and some of the best food and wine you can imagine

It’s not an impossible dream. There are still little-known parts of mainstream central Europe where few Americans wander—even in the height (and heat) of summer.

Case in point: Purbach.

A village perched prettily on the western shores of Lake Neusiedl in Austria’s Burgenland (think Sonoma Valley: in German), Purbach is but one tiny hour east of Vienna. Yet it’s very old-school, and so very untrammeled.

Take a walking tour: and hear about a Turkish soldier who was forgotten by his own troops.

Marvel at the “Kellergasse,” a maze of 50 historic wine cellars. 

Cycle along the sunny lake, or take a dip.

Most of all, get to know the winemakers and local chefs that make Purbach a secret culinary revelation. Don’t look for culinary showboating, but simple and truly local cuisine, of the highest execution. Dine (and stay) at the Gut Purbach, where Chef Max Stiegl will serve you fish from the lake, or the Restaurant Kloster am Spitz, where brothers Wolfgang and Thomas Schwarz match the astounding local wine with the food. Or, rent an apartment at the historic Herberge an der Nikolauszeche and do your own marketing and cooking.

For more information, visit www.gutpurbach.at

Czech Republic

Going to Prague is like stepping into a fairy tale. But until you head south for Hluboka nad Vltavou, you haven’t seen anything!

In minutes, the two-hour drive south from Prague will make you feel you’re leaving reality: you’ll pass lake after forest after lake. Then, you’re there. You’ll know it as the impressive silhouette of Hluboka Chateau takes your breath away.

The Windsor Neo-Gothic castle (open year-round, unlike most Czech castles) hails from the 13th century, and it’s surrounded on all sides by the Vltava River—like a moat.

The Chateau itself is located on the grounds of a large English park. Inside, you’ll find precious collections, luxe interiors (unique woodcutting is a major feature), a greenhouse garden, a winter garden, a riding school, and a hunting museumf. Art lovers can gaze at the Czech medieval paintings, and the contemporary art collection, too—and if you time it just right, you can do so amidst classical music in the parlor.

The area itself is a playground: full of golf courses, fishing, hunting, hiking and biking trails. You can also board a steamboat (the trip takes an hour) or a plane. On your return trip to Prague? Stop by neighboring Ceske Budejovice, and visit the original Budweiser Brewery.

Mary's Accommodation service can arrange both guided one-day trips, and longer independent stays. For more information, visit www.zamek-hluboka.eu and www.marys.eu. 

Hungary

Calling all horse lovers! See Central Europe—on horseback!

It’s true. You can pretend you’re on the set of a Western—but in Hungary.

Few know that the first Hungarians—the Magyars—were warrior horsemen who rode to Europe from the steppes of central Asia.

Today, the Hungarian riding tradition persists. There are dozens of full service riding centers both near Budapest and in the countryside (think American prairieland, with amazing food!). You can take a riding lesson, or sign up for a traveling excursion, which utilizes charming, country-style accommodations to make the most of Hungary’s wide-open spaces!

Horseback riding itself takes on a distinct Hungarian flavor. Layer in centuries of folk heritage: evident in the folklore house of Kalocsa to the village of Hollókõ, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Puszta, a vast flatland known in Hungarian as the “Great Plain,” is unique in Europe. Farmhouse walls are washed in white, and surrounded by fields of bright red paprika, sweep wells, galloping horses and stud farms.

And while it’s easily accessible, it’s totally unspoiled: there aren’t highways, railways, or factories running through it. In addition to being flat (great for Hungarian cowboys and girls), the land is refreshingly unmarred.

If you’d prefer to do your sightseeing on foot, you can still visit, and view the horse demonstrations at the region’s numerous riding centers and horse farms. Two suggestions are the Tanyacsarda, or the Gereby Mansion Hotel.

For more information, visit www.tanyacsarda.hu or www.gereby.hu

Slovakia

Money money money! Pay a visit to the oldest—and some say finest—mint in the world. While you’re there, you’ll make a mint, too.

The Kremnica, in Slovakia. It’s the world’s oldest continuously running mint.

That means that we’ve been making our coins since 1328 without a break—despite wars, conquest, and other political turmoil.

The town, also called Kremnica, is located amidst the lush valley forests of central Slovakia. When Slovakia was part of the Hungarian Kingdom, this town was commonly known as the “golden town,” or “Golden Kremnica”—not just for the mint, but also the sheer wealth of this once-prosperous mining town.

Mansions are still in evidence. But head straight toward the mint: a five-story building right in the center of town. The Kremnica mint houses the world’s finest collection of Kremnica Ducats—or Florins—as beautiful and well-made as they are valuable. On permanent display are a) an exhibit dedicated to the history of money in Slovakia, b) another dedicated to the craft of coinage, and c) medals of the National Bank of Slovakia.

Best of all, you can make a mint yourself—and take it home. For more information, visit www.slovakia.travel, www.mint.sk, and www.muzeum.sk.

Germany

Come springtime, tourists flock to Munich and Berlin—like buffalo to water. But within a stone’s throw lie two areas with similar appeal—and far fewer visitors.

Just 30 minutes from one of the world’s most buzzworthy cities sits the Brandenburg region: Berlin’s beautiful backdrop. Miles upon miles of unspoiled countryside provide fresh spots for hiking, biking, horseback riding, and even boating.

The area consists of the Lower Oder Valley National Park, three biosphere reserves (the Spree Forest, Schorfheide-Chorin, and Elbe-Brandenburg Riverside), and 11 nature reserves. Make a stop in Potsdam: Brandenburg’s capital is alive with history. Its centerpiece? The Sanssouci Palace (a UNESCO world heritage site), a place of remarkable gardens.

Just 40 minutes outside of Munich, sits the Andechs Abbey. The "Holy Mountain" and rococo church are one of Bavaria’s most important pilgrimage sites. Spend a few days with the monks, and learn their ways. It’s not all about virtue: you can sit in the abbey’s brewery, nibbling on local food to go with your beer, while gazing onto Lake Ammersee.

North of Munich is Dachau. With 1,200 year of history behind it, the former art colony has more recently reinvented itself as a cultural hub. Anchored by a castle and cobblestoned old town, one can attend a plethora of cultural events, including the Dachau Palace Concerts, the Dachau Music Summer, or the traditional Dachau Folk Festival. 

Poland

Before Robert Moses, there was Jan Zamoyski—a leader who had a knack for designing cities, and a vision that was unstoppable.

170 miles southeast of Warsaw, 35 miles from Ukraine, sits the Renaissance town
of Zamosc, in Lublin, Poland.

Jan Zamoyski was a crown chancellor and military commander from 1580. Back then, great leaders did it all: and so Zamoyski both chose the town site, and designed it—with architect Bernardo Morando—according to Italian idealist theories. The town balances a community center, a fortress, and residences.

In 1992, Zamosc’ city center made the UNESCO World Heritage List .

Today, the town is a lively center for cultural events, such as Zamosc Days of Music, International Meetings of Jazz Singers, and open-air performances of Zamosc Theatre Summer. Folk art enthusiasts benefit, too: folk groups from all over the world visit during the annual "EUROFOLK" International Folk Festival. Come summer, the Summer Film Academy and the "SACROFILM" International Religious Film Days liven the streets, making it a Mecca for filmgoers, too.

For more information, visit www.zamosc.pl.